BFF-37, 38 Midnight market abuzz in Syria’s divided Hasakeh

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Midnight market abuzz in Syria’s divided Hasakeh

HASAKEH, Syria, June 14, 2018 (BSS/AFP) – Khaled beams at two late-night
customers entering his sweet shop in Syria’s Hasakeh. For the first time in
years, the market is open past dusk ahead of the Eid al-Fitr feast.

For some, the resurgent holiday spirit is a sign that the tensions between
the Syrian army and Kurdish forces that ruined the festive occasion in
previous years are being worked out.

“In the past, we didn’t have anything close to what you’d call a nighttime
souk,” says Khaled, standing behind a counter overflowing with bright,
individually-wrapped nougats and nuts.

“But tonight, it’s the opposite — the souk has flourished,” says the
owner, his hair slicked back and wearing a clean-pressed checkered shirt.

The difference, shopkeepers and customers say, is a major improvement in
security in the northeastern Syrian city.

Hasakeh is split between Syrian regime forces, which hold roughly a quarter
of the city, and the rival Kurdish security forces known as Asayish, which
control the rest.

The main souk running along Palestine Street was the site of frequent
clashes between the groups in recent years, forcing traders to shutter
storefronts before nightfall.

That crushed sales during the holy month of Ramadan, during which Muslims
break a day-long fast at dusk and then set off to shop and socialise, and
which ends with the Eid al-Fitr holiday later this week.

“This market is between two firepowers: the Asayish on one side and the
Syrian army on the other,” says Anas al-Abbas.

Behind him are shelves of the mascara tubes, glittery watches, and dangly
faux silver earrings he sells.

“In the past, before Eid, there would be skirmishes between the two sides,
but this year the situation is good,” he says.

Outside, shoppers of all ages — including young men in military camouflage
— stroll down the main thoroughfare, pausing to peer into toy stores or
examine perfume bottles.

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– Mediation efforts –

The street is lit by glaring fluorescent bulbs, strings of coloured lights
hung on trees and the headlights of yellow taxis in bumper-to-bumper traffic.

Just meters from each other are the two-star Syrian government flag and a
portrait of Abdullah Ocalan, the jailed leader of the Kurdistan Workers’
Party (PKK).

The bustling market now stays open until well after midnight, and sometimes
until suhur — the pre-dawn meal before fasting begins again.

Some shoppers and traders say the newfound stability is thanks to an
attempted rapprochement between regime forces and Kurdish units.

A year after Syria’s war erupted in 2011, government troops withdrew from
many Kurdish-majority areas and local authorities set up their own autonomous
institutions.

As the regime regains its footing across the war-torn country, it has come
to see these areas as a challenge to its authority.

President Bashar al-Assad warned last month he could use force against
Kurdish units if he was not able to re-take their territory through talks.

Since then, mediation efforts appear to have begun and the political arm of
a powerful Kurdish-led militia has said it is ready for unconditional talks
with the government.

Abu Khaled, a 45-year-old athletic coach, says the difference is palpable.

“We’re hearing of close negotiations between the Syrian army and Kurdish
People’s Protection Units (YPG), and we hope they reach a solution,” he tells
AFP as he shops for sunglasses on Palestine Street.

The hazel-eyed trainer says he is more willing to come to the market
knowing that tensions were no longer simmering.

“This land is for everyone. Our brothers in the YPG are Syrians and this is
their land, too,” he says.

– ‘Things have changed’ –

Sami al-Saleh has wandered into Khaled’s store and is perusing the plastic
containers of candies.

“Over the past few days, we’ve felt like things have changed in Hasakeh.
The souk is open at night, there’s clearly economic activity,” says the 38-
year-old.

“We hope there’s a political solution (to the tensions), because the
country can’t handle things anymore considering the difficulties they lived
in the past.”

Syria’s conflict has left more than 350,000 people dead and forced more
than 11 million from their homes, nearly half of whom have left the country
entirely.

Years of fighting have ravaged Syria’s economy and torn at its social
fabric.

Ahmad Antar, a 58-year-old Kurdish perfume peddler, hopes the detente in
Hasakeh means he can finally find love.

“My cousins are married to Arabs. I’ll marry an Arab too,” the shop owner
says with a smile.

“We want a political solution for the area. That’s better and easier,
because the military solution means destruction. There is no winner.”

BSS/AFP/FI/ 1120 hrs